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Some Small HP Restoration & Maintenance Tools

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...........................(Home Made)........................

ToolE.JPG (21793 bytes) Dunlop Wire Wheel Spoke Wrench

FlyWheelBlock.jpg (27941 bytes)

Used in place of the starter, this locks the flywheel for removal of front damper, etc.

FlyWheelBlock1.jpg (59016 bytes)

A stronger flywheel block shown capable of use when the oil sump is removed.

FlyBlock2.jpg (78073 bytes)

The same tool set to use when the oil sump is in place (note the long starter bolts in use)

CorePlugTool.jpg (77678 bytes)

This is one of two sockets I modified to remove the head core plugs.  (Inquire for sizes)

SWPuller.jpg (35086 bytes)

Adaptors ready for a two or three prong gear puller to remove the Steering Wheel. The hub is shown to be a tapered spline upon removal.

BritTools3.jpg (92062 bytes)

British Sockets and Spanners are required of course. Mother said: "You can never be too rich, too thin, nor have too many tools.

RearHubExtractor.jpg (43303 bytes)

This acts as a puller for the front and rear hub mechanisms (retracts)

RearHubTool.jpg (39093 bytes)

This 1 3/8" socket was modified to remove the rear ring holding part of the hub.

CrankGearReady.jpg (64152 bytes)

Slipper Drive (& crankshaft gear) shown ready to be pulled.   All of the fan pulley and parts have been removed. All of the timing marks must be inscribed before proceeding.

CrankGearPullerOne.jpg (65776 bytes)

The first part of the fabricated puller is installed using nuts on the fan pulley studs. This ring has hardened studs brazed in place for the added strength.

CrankGearPullerInst.jpg (61506 bytes)

Now the puller is ready to use with the outer face flush to the end of the crankshaft (except one nut is left off to show threads required).   Begin advancing these nuts in order about a quarter turn each time around.

CrankGearPullPin.jpg (37611 bytes)

Close up shows a drift shaft in place in the starter crank tube which may be "smacked smartly" as the nuts are brought up tight equally all around.   At some point, a "rifle crack" will resound as the tapered shaft separates from the gear.  Heat around the gear may be required as well.




Click to GoTo the Restoration Procedures using some of these tools

HeadTubes1.JPG (589213 bytes)

Jig and Tools for replacing copper tubes in the head and block 


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