Used in place of the starter, this locks the flywheel for removal of front damper, etc.

A stronger flywheel block shown capable of use when the oil sump is removed.

The same tool set to use when the oil sump is in place (note the long starter bolts in use)

This is one of two sockets I modified to remove the head core plugs.  (Inquire for sizes)

Adaptors ready for a two or three prong gear puller to remove the Steering Wheel. The hub is shown to be a tapered spline upon removal.

British Sockets and Spanners are required of course. Mother said: "You can never be too rich, too thin, nor have too many tools.

This acts as a puller for the front and rear hub mechanisms (retracts)

This 1 3/8" socket was modified to remove the rear ring holding part of the hub.

Slipper Drive (& crankshaft gear) shown ready to be pulled.   All of the fan pulley and parts have been removed. All of the timing marks must be inscribed before proceeding.

The first part of the fabricated puller is installed using nuts on the fan pulley studs. This ring has hardened studs brazed in place for the added strength.

Now the puller is ready to use with the outer face flush to the end of the crankshaft (except one nut is left off to show threads required).   Begin advancing these nuts in order about a quarter turn each time around.

Close up shows a drift shaft in place in the starter crank tube which may be "smacked smartly" as the nuts are brought up tight equally all around.   At some point, a "rifle crack" will resound as the tapered shaft separates from the gear.  Heat around the gear may be required as well.

Jig and Tools for replacing copper tubes in the head and block